Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
